Tag Archives: Dior

The New “New Look”

7 May

From the 1920s to the 1940s, skirt lengths rose considerably. Women loved the ability to showcase their gams in knee-length hemlines. They relished the freedom it offered them, the progressive ideas of sex represented in the short hems.

But in 1947 Christian Dior had a different silhouette in mind. Instead of following the trend, he went against the grain and designed mid-calf, full skirts, which Harper’s Bazaar christened the “New Look.” Some women picked up on the fashion statement. And others rebelled, angry that their legs were now going to be hidden and their movement restricted.

Longer skirt lengths are making a comeback in the fashion industry, and I like to think of this as a second coming of the “New Look,” since they’re a departure from the knee-length and above-the-knee lengths that fill most modern women’s closets. They were seen on many a spring 2011 runway, from Rag and Bone to DKNY (pictured below. Different from the New Look of before, this longer hemline is streamlined, usually keeping the maxi close to the body. There are also less demure aspects to this trend, with some designers choosing to make skirts in translucent chiffon to still show some leg.

Jil Sander S2011

This trend today is still in its early stages. It’s mostly the early trend setters that are wearing mid calf and floor length silhouettes rather than the oh-so-popular mini and knee-length skirts seen by the masses. There hasn’t been any real retaliation to this trend yet, probably because women are maybe ready for a change. And more mass retailers are picking up on this trend. For instance, on American Apparel’s skirt page, ankle-lengths are featured first. It will be interesting to see how many women adopt this length in the near future.

Dior sans Galliano

3 Mar

John Galliano, the British designer who has been the mastermind behind Dior since 1997, has been in the news a lot this past week. Dior Haute Couture fired him after he made anti-semitic remarks toward a couple at a Paris cafe and was in a video saying, “I love Hitler.” He has now been arrested on charges of public insults based on ethnicity or religion and will be tried in French courts.┬áDior’s runway show is scheduled to be shown tomorrow, and the big question is whether or not people will attend.

While I feel that what Galliano did was incredibly offensive, I don’t know if it necessitates a boycott of Dior. Dior is more than just Galliano, and supporting the house, which had no part in the hateful speech, is not a problem. They now are even less tied to him, since they fired him. I personally feel more strongly that people should boycott the John Galliano show on Sunday. John Galliano the fashion brand is strictly him, and he deserves the punishment of no attendees.

As to what will happen to Dior, it’s hard to say. Hopefully they won’t receive too much backlash for Galliano’s mistake. The design house has always been a force in fashion, and it was Galliano’s creativity which really brought it to another level. Purely for fashion reasons, I am sad that he might not be able to continue designing, both for Dior and his own label. He was always one to watch. We’ll have to watch what happens.

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